Bali, the island of the gods, is a tropical paradise located in the Indonesian archipelago. With its lush vegetation, ancient temples, and idyllic beaches, Bali is a destination that captivates travelers from around the world. However, beyond its tourist attractions, the island is also famous for its coffee production, particularly the exclusive kopi luwak, also known as "civet coffee." Bali's coffee plantations extend across fertile mountainous terrain, benefiting from a high-altitude tropical climate ideal for coffee cultivation. Amid these coffee plantations, the luwak, a species of Asian civet, play a unique role in the production of one of the most expensive coffees in the world.

My trip to Bali and the discovery of coffee

In 2017, my wife and I traveled to Bali, although our purpose wasn't coffee-related. We simply had the opportunity to attend a friend's wedding in such an exotic location. And boy did we take advantage of it!

At that time, my interest in specialty coffee was beginning to grow, but I didn't yet consider myself a connoisseur. Bali gave me the opportunity to discover a fascinating world of coffee, which I still remember with great fondness. Among the many experiences we had on the island, a visit to a local coffee plantation marked a turning point in my appreciation for this beverage.

Visiting a Balinese coffee plantation

During our stay on the island, we visited a coffee plantation located about 400 meters above sea level. This plantation was located on a plain alternating with rice fields, surrounded by mountains covered in lush tropical forest. There, farmers grew Robusta coffee, a hardy variety that adapts well to the region's climatic conditions. Although I currently focus exclusively on specialty Arabica varieties, I must admit that trying other coffees is always a good and enriching experience, regardless of one's preferences. Not surprisingly, Balinese Robusta has a distinctive flavor, with earthy and spicy notes and an extraordinarily intense body.

The coffee plantation was a small family farm, and the coffee trees grew under the shade of taller trees. Local farmers explained their cultivation and harvesting process, which is still largely manual and artisanal. It was an enriching experience to see the work of these coffee-producing communities up close.

Ways to serve coffee in Bali

One of the things that surprised me most during our visit was the way the Balinese enjoy coffee. Unlike other countries where espresso is common, in Bali filter coffees predominate. Coffee is often served with milk and sugar, although it is also common to sweeten it with honey or palm syrup. While coffee is only available in filter coffee versions, finding espresso or Italian coffee makers proved to be a difficult task, as these methods are not part of the local coffee tradition.

Tropical climate and growing conditions

Bali's climate is tropical at altitude, which favors the growth of coffee. During our visit, the temperature hovered around 24 degrees Celsius, with a few scattered showers characteristic of the dry season. The overwhelming humidity and occasional rainfall ensure that the coffee trees grow in optimal conditions. This climate contributes to developing the flavor nuances of Balinese coffee, which tends to be less acidic than coffees from higher altitude regions.

The Luwak in the Balinese coffee plantations

One of the most striking aspects of coffee production in Bali is the presence of the Luwak. This mammal, a species of civet, plays a crucial role in the production of kopi luwak, a coffee obtained from the beans digested and excreted by the animal. Traditionally, Luwak were found in the wild and fed freely on the fruits of the coffee tree. However, today, in many coffee plantations, Luwak live in semi-captivity, which has generated some controversy surrounding the ethics of their exploitation for coffee production.

On the plantation we visited, the Luwak were kept in a controlled environment, but with a certain amount of freedom of movement. We were told that the farmers collected the coffee beans excreted by the Luwak, washed them, and dried them before beginning the roasting process. Although this practice has been criticized, the coffee farmers we spoke to assured us that they tried to maintain conditions suitable for the animals' well-being.

Traditional coffee processing in Bali

Coffee processing in Bali follows traditional methods passed down through generations. After harvesting, the beans are left to dry in the sun on large bamboo trays. They are then manually pulped and slowly roasted in clay pans over wood fires. This artisanal roasting method contributes to the earthy and spicy flavors of Balinese coffee.

At the plantation, we had the opportunity to taste coffee roasted on-site, allowing us to appreciate the freshness and intense flavor of the freshly processed beans. It was an unforgettable experience that solidified my passion for specialty coffee.

Conclusion

My trip to Bali in 2017 was not only an unforgettable cultural and tourist experience, but also marked the beginning of my deep interest in the world of coffee. Discovering the island's coffee plantations, learning about kopi luwak, and tasting freshly roasted coffee at a local plantation were key moments of my trip. Despite the controversy surrounding kopi luwak production, the Balinese coffee farmers' passion for their craft is undeniable. Without a doubt, Bali is a fascinating destination for coffee lovers seeking new experiences and flavors in every cup.